Where to eat in Istanbul

Restaurants, cafés and street food in Istanbul, Turkey that locals actually go to — plus the local names for the chains you already know.

• Karaköy Güllüoğlu — Baklava, Karaköy (1). Order the Fıstıklı baklava + kaymak. The baklava dynasty's flagship since 1949.
• Vefa Bozacısı — Boza, Vefa / Fatih (1). Order the Boza with roasted chickpeas. Fermented millet drink served since 1876 — an acquired ritual.
• Balıkçı Sabahattin — Seafood, Sultanahmet (3). Order the Grilled turbot + meze spread. Fish house in an old wooden mansion — meze first, always.
• Kızılkayalar — Street food, Taksim (1). Order the Islak burger. Home of the ıslak burger — the wet burger of Taksim nights.
• Mikla — Modern Anatolian, Beyoğlu / Pera (4). Order the Tasting menu. Rooftop fine dining over the Golden Horn.
• Pandeli — Ottoman, Eminönü / Spice Bazaar (3). Order the Hünkar beğendi. Turquoise-tiled rooms above the Spice Bazaar since 1901.
• Çiya Sofrası — Anatolian, Kadıköy (2). Order the Daily kebab + regional stews. Musa Dağdeviren's living museum of Anatolian cooking.
• Hünkar — Ottoman home cooking, Nişantaşı (3). Order the Hünkar beğendi + manti. Esnaf classics elevated — the beğendi sets the standard.
• Dürümzade — Dürüm / kebab, Beyoğlu (1). Order the Adana dürüm. The wrap stand Bourdain made famous — locals knew first.
• Lades Menemen — Breakfast, Beyoğlu (1). Order the Menemen with sucuk. The menemen specialist off İstiklal.

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