Where to eat in Lisbon

Restaurants, cafés and street food in Lisbon, Portugal that locals actually go to — plus the local names for the chains you already know.

• Pastéis de Belém — Pastelaria, Belém (1). Order the Pastel de Belém, warm, with canela. The original custard tart, guarded recipe since 1837.
• O Trevo — Tasca, Chiado / Praça Camões (1). Order the Bifana + imperial. The bifana counter Bourdain immortalized.
• Casa do Alentejo — Alentejan, Baixa (2). Order the Porco à alentejana. A Moorish palace hiding honest Alentejo cooking.
• Ponto Final — Portuguese, Cacilhas (across the Tejo) (2). Order the Grilled fish + vinho verde. Yellow chairs on the water's edge — take the ferry, watch Lisbon glow.
• Cervejaria Ramiro — Marisqueira, Intendente / Av. Almirante Reis (3). Order the Gambas al ajillo + prego finale. Garlic prawns, bread, beer, repeat — since 1956.
• Taberna da Rua das Flores — Petiscos, Chiado (2). Order the Daily petiscos board. Chalkboard petiscos in a tiny 19th-century grocery.
• Manteigaria — Pastelaria, Chiado (1). Order the Pastel de nata. The upstart nata that many locals now rank first.
• Solar dos Presuntos — Portuguese, Baixa / Av. Liberdade (3). Order the Arroz de marisco. The 1974 institution for seafood rice and presunto.
• Zé da Mouraria — Tasca, Mouraria (2). Order the Bacalhau assado. Lunch-only portions of bacalhau that defeat grown adults.
• A Ginjinha (Espinheira) — Ginjinha bar, Rossio (1). Order the Ginjinha com elas. A doorway pouring cherry liqueur since 1840. Com ou sem?
• Belcanto — Fine dining, Chiado (4). Order the The garden of the goose that laid the golden eggs. Two Michelin stars — Avillez rebuilds the Portuguese canon rather than importing French technique.
• Prado — Modern Portuguese, Baixa (3). Order the Smoked eel with goat's butter and artichokes. A near-daily menu written straight off small Portuguese producers, with an all-natural wine list.

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