Where to eat in Tokyo

Restaurants, cafés and street food in Tokyo, Japan that locals actually go to — plus the local names for the chains you already know.

• Tonki — Tonkatsu, Meguro (2). Order the Rosu katsu teishoku. A 1939 katsu theatre — one counter, white jackets, perfect rhythm.
• Sushi Dai — Sushi, Toyosu Market (3). Order the Omakase set. The market-morning omakase people queue at dawn for.
• AFURI — Ramen, Ebisu (1). Order the Yuzu shio ramen. Yuzu-shio ramen that lightened the whole genre.
• Kagari — Ramen, Ginza (1). Order the Tori paitan soba. Chicken-paitan silk in a back-alley counter.
• Kanda Yabu Soba — Soba, Kanda / Awajicho (2). Order the Seiro soba. Soba nobility since 1880 — listen for the sing-song order calls.
• Harajuku Gyozaro — Gyoza, Harajuku (1). Order the Yaki gyoza + biru. Two kinds of gyoza, beer, no fuss — eternal line, fast turnover.
• Kyubey — Sushi, Ginza (4). Order the Omakase at the counter. Ginza sushi hospitality since 1935 — the approachable splurge.
• Fuunji — Tsukemen, Shinjuku (1). Order the Tokusei tsukemen. The tsukemen line worth every minute of it.

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